What is Bandhani? The Art of the Knot

Bandhani is one of India's oldest ways of bringing pattern to cloth — and one of the most joyful. Its name comes from the Sanskrit bandh, "to tie", and that is exactly how it is made.

How Bandhani is made

The design is first marked on the fabric. Then, point by point, the cloth is pinched up and bound tightly with thread. A single saree can hold a very large number of these tiny ties.

When the cloth is dyed, the tightly bound points resist the colour. Once the fabric has dried and the threads are opened, each tie reveals a small ring or dot in the colour the fabric held before.

For multi-coloured designs the process repeats: the cloth is tied, dyed in a lighter colour, tied again and dyed in a deeper one. Layer by layer, the pattern grows.

Patterns with names

Bandhani has its own vocabulary. Dots may stand alone or gather into clusters, and are arranged into flowers, waves, borders and grids. The gharchola — a bridal design traditional in Gujarat — frames Bandhani dots within a grid, often with zari.

How to recognise hand-tied Bandhani

• Look at the back. In tied Bandhani the dye passes through the cloth, so the pattern shows on both sides.
• Look closely at the dots. Hand-tied dots are slightly irregular — a sign of the hand, not a flaw.
• Feel the texture. Fresh Bandhani often keeps a gentle crinkle where the cloth was tied.

Caring for Bandhani

Hand-dyed colours deserve gentle care. Dry-clean for the first washes, or wash separately in cold water with a mild detergent, and dry in the shade.

Explore our Bandhani collection.